save The Pax 2 vaporizer makes its predecessor look half-baked I immediately fell in love with the original Pax vaporizer when it debuted back in 2012.Its compact and lightweight construction belied a powerful three-stage conduction oven, while the sleek, push-button design made it far more intuitive and user-friendly than other portable vaporizers available at the time.Granted, the OG Pax wasn't perfect -- what with its habit of clogging every few sessions or so.Now, more than two years after the release of the first Pax, PAX Labs is back with a new iteration that's smaller, lighter and more powerful than its predecessor.Say hello to the Pax 2.Before we get into why the Pax 2 is so great, it would help to discuss where the first Pax fell short.Despite being light-years ahead of other portable vaping systems of the day like, say, the Magic-Flight Launch Box, the first Pax was not perfect.For one thing, users had to toggle the unit's power by clicking the extendable mouthpiece.

Unfortunately, even sparing use of the device proved enough to clog the vapor pathway with sticky resin, thereby making it nearly impossible to operate.And since you couldn't turn the unit on, there was no means of heating up the air pathway to loosen the resin and pull out the mouthpiece.What's more, the shape of the mouthpiece itself prevented you from prying it off manually.When I reviewed the original model, I actually clogged my test unit so badly (and so quickly) that PAX Labs had to send me a replacement unit just to finish the review.There were also a couple of smaller, niggling problems like the easily scuffed plastic casing and finicky temperature levels.The Pax 2, however, suffers from none of these concerns.In fact, it looks like PAX Labs specifically focused on fixing these issues when designing the new unit.At less than four inches long, the Pax 2 is significantly shorter than the original.It also weighs a couple grams less than the first one.Overall, the Pax 2 is 25 percent smaller and 10 percent lighter than the first.

That doesn't, however, make the Pax 2, with its lack of moving external parts, feel any less sturdy and robust.vaporizer black flakesIn fact, the new unit's brushed aluminum casing (available in four colors: charcoal, platinum, topaz, flare) is far less prone to scuffs and scratches.The new mouthpiece is, quite simply, fantastic.e cigarette shop parisRather than a physical mechanism that can be gummed up with resin, the Pax 2 utilizes a small, rubberized pad that doubles as a touch-sensitive power and temperature-setting button.vape shop 60641It may seem weird initially, especially if you're accustomed to the original's external mouthpiece, but this new form is far easier to use, seals better and won't sear your lips.vaporizer dpf

I, for one, really like the flush-mounted mouthpiece.It not only pops off the unit and gets lost in my bag/pockets far less often, but also helps stealthily conceal what the Pax 2 actually is.vaporizer 4-aco-dmtI mean, with the original Pax, it was pretty obvious what I was vaping every time I extended the mouthpiece.vaporizer as humidifierBut this is much more subtle, maybe even more so than its rival -- the Firefly.I was very impressed by the vapor quality of the new Pax 2, which got downright milky at the two highest temperature settings.The Pax 2's heater is also vastly superior to the original's.While you needed to remove the mouthpiece and press a tiny button on the interior of the unit on the first Pax, the Pax 2 simply requires you to long-press the power button to bring up the temperature-selection menu, and then tap it to cycle through the four heat settings.

Additionally, the first Pax's oven design often caused the bottom plate to heat more than the sides or top, which resulted in scorching -- precisely what you don't want to have happen.But the Pax 2's stainless steel oven, which is both deeper and wider, heats more evenly with minimal scorching.Overall, I was very impressed by the vapor quality of the new Pax 2, which got downright milky at the two highest temperature settings without tasting harsh or smoky.You will probably need to fiddle with your puffing technique a bit to get the most out of each hit; go for a gentle cigar-style puff, not a sharp inhale like you're clearing a binger.Far and away the biggest performance improvement involves the Pax's battery life.The original Pax battery lasted for four, maybe five sessions before requiring a three-hour stint on its charging dock.The Pax 2 requires about the same amount of time to fully recharge (around two to three hours), but thanks to a vastly improved internal accelerometer, which turns off the heater the moment you set it down, the new unit lasts for nearly twice as many sessions between charges that its predecessor.

I averaged seven to nine sessions per charge over the course of this test.This means I can now head out for the evening without worrying if my vaporizer will last, or if I should have brought a backup pipe.Be warned, the pocket-sized Pax 2 carries a substantial $280 price tag.That's 30 bucks more than the original Pax (although that model is currently being discounted down to $200) and is on par with the $270 Firefly and $260 Arizer Air.While the Pax 2 doesn't heat instantly like the Firefly or offer an aromatherapy function like the Arizer, its combination of ease-of-use, portability, impressive battery life and vapor quality make it well worth checking out.From around the web ear iconeye icontext fileYOU MUST BE 21 OR OLDER TO VIEW THIS WEBSITEThis is how I clean my , and the process is exactly the same for the PAX 2.Check out my 3-minute cleaning video above for the whole procedure (it’s easy), or click that text link to see my full review.Stay up!-BudThe original Pax had a different design and required a slightly more complicated cleaning process.

You can find my first cleaning video and the transcription is below.Video transcription: What up.This video is going to be a tutorial on how to clean the Pax Vaporizer and how to apply the new mouthpiece lubricant that they provide.Cleaning your Pax regularly is just something you’ve got to do to keep it working at peak performance, and applying the mouthpiece lubricant is something that helps avoid almost all the common issues that the Pax has.Here’s what you’re going to need to do this.You’re going to need a packet of the mouthpiece lubricant.You’re going to need a little bit of rubbing alcohol.The one I’m using here is this one, a 91%.One of these things is also pretty useful for cleaning the Pax.This is an inter-dental brush, and these you can pick up at your local drugstore or supermarket.This is just the package that I bought as an example, alright?You’ll see I also have two Q-Tips here.I have a pipe cleaner, and then I also have a straw off a spray can of WD-40, and I’ll explain what you do with this in a couple minutes.There are two main areas of the Pax that need to be cleaned and maintained.

The first area is up around the mouthpiece connections, inside here.The second area is down where the oven is.First, we’ll do the top here.First, you’ll turn it on which pops out the mouthpiece.Pull the mouthpiece off and set it down.First, what I usually do is grab my little interdental brush here.I’m going to put a little bit of rubbing alcohol on it, but not too much.If it’s dripping off, just give it a little dab to get the excess off on a paper towel.The main reason you need a tiny brush like this is to get around the tubing right there.That’s the actual vapor path that comes up from the oven on the bottom.You’ll see that around it is a little tiny space that is too small to get a Q-Tip in, so that’s why I use one of these things.It works really well.I’m just going to go in and around the tubing.What you’re trying to do is get any residue off that might have built up on these connections in here.When build up happens on these connections, it could cause the vaporizer to act a little weird, so we’re just going to scrub it a little bit to get it all off.

There’s not going to be a lot of residue, but just a little bit.It could cause some issues, so let’s get it out.All right, then if you want to, you could dip it again and dab off.I also use this piece to get in the little hole at the top of the mouthpiece here.It works pretty well to get in there.You could also use this to get in this piece up here, like underneath this piece as it rocks back and forth.You could use this to get in there.All right, so now I’ll just set that down and to the side.Now what I’ll do is I’ll take my pipe cleaner, and I’m just going to moisten the end of it with the alcohol.Again, you really don’t want it dripping, so I’m going to dab off the excess there.I’m going to take my mouthpiece again, and I’m going to get inside this piece like that.I’ll get the bottom here also and maybe the outside a little bit.All right, I’m just going to set the pipe cleaner down to the side for a second, and I’m going to grab one of my Q-Tips.I’m going to get some alcohol on it, dab it off, and then get all up here.

All right, and you could also use like a wipe or a paper towel to get on the outside here, but I’ll just use this for here.I’ll get around there.All right, and I’m going to wipe the mouthpiece off and dry it.All right, so now the mouthpiece is pretty much clean.Now what I’m going to do is grab my pipe cleaner again, and this time I’m going to moisten more of it, and this might actually be easier using the bottle, so I’m going to dip this in the bottle.All right, so, before I get started on that part, what I’m going to do is just take off the bottom oven cover, which is just held on by a magnet, so you just pull it off.Then I’m going to come back to the top here, and I’m going to stick the pip cleaner dipped in rubbing alcohol, again not dripping, just damp, down the center of the vapor path there.Normally, just putting the pipe cleaner down here, this is how you’re supposed to normally pop out the screen on the bottom.You’ll see that my screen actually did pop out this time.

Now, sometimes the screen won’t pop out just from using the pipe cleaner.Sometimes the pipe cleaner doesn’t provide enough force to actually push it out, you know, because sometimes the residue will make the screen stick in there.That’s why I also have one of these things handy, and this is just a rigid piece of plastic.Like a mentioned, I got this off a spray can.This actually fits perfectly down the vapor path.Sometimes I use this to pop out my screen if the screen is being a little finicky and doesn’t want to come out just from the pipe cleaner.This time I didn’t need it, so that’s cool.You’ll see that I went down the top, and I scrubbed a little bit, not too long.I’ll go in from the bottom now, too.I’ll just scrub a little bit.You’ll see that my oven itself is looking a little messy, too.I’m just going to bend my pipe cleaner now, dip it again, and see if I can scrub some of this out.It’s not really important to go crazy with this.You’re never really going to get it looking like new again.

It’s just important to get out any globs of residue or any big clumps of buildup.If there’s just discoloration inside the oven or on the screen, that’s no big deal.That’s not going to affect performance.You don’t have to worry about it.I’ve had my Pax for a while now, so my oven’s pretty broken in, you could say.You could see me scrubbing, and not much of that’s going to come off, so I kind of have just a discoloration going on in here, but again, it doesn’t really effect performance, so it’s not a big deal.You could also use the Q-Tip in here.If you wanted to, you could dip the Q-Tip, scrub it a little more.Okay, Q- Tip to the side.Now we have the little screen piece here which actually isn’t a screen at all.If you’re familiar with the Pax you know what I’m talking about.It’s actually just a solid metal plate.There are no holes in it, so that’s why this part kind of builds up some residue, too.You could take your other Q-Tip, you could dip it.This part also like I mentioned is not going to get sparkling new again most of the time, but it doesn’t really matter.

You could just get it the best you can.I have some extra screens, too.You can buy replacement screens if you wanted to.If you wanted it to look new again, you could always just pop in a new one.Since this isn’t negatively affecting the performance at all, I’m just going to ride it out and keep using this one.Even though it might look a little ugly, it doesn’t really matter.I’ll just wait, and I’ll dry this off a little bit.Now, the actual lid to the oven, or the cover, this part will sometimes have buildup on it also.Mine is pretty clean right now because I did clean my Pax recently, but what you would do is just dampen your Q-Tip again with rubbing alcohol, and you could just rub this part to get it clean, and then dry it off, alright.At this point you’re pretty much done cleaning it, and now the only thing left to do is apply the mouthpiece lubricant.This is normally what the packet looks like that they provide.I’m just going to put this one to the side because I have another one that I’ve already opened.

You don’t need a lot of this stuff.You only need a tiny bit, so this one packet should last you a long time.What I do is I take my inter-dental brush that I used before to clean, and just make sure it’s fully dry now.Then I’ll take my packet of lubricant, and you only need to drop one or two drops onto the brush.That’s all you need.This might actually be too much, so if you put on too much, it’s no big deal.You could just dab a little off.Then I take my mouthpiece, and you’re going to give it one little swish on the inside here, a little bit on the bottom, and then a little bit on this piece up here, a little bit on the outside, alright?And that’s pretty much it.You’ll just take your mouthpiece, and you’ll stick it back in here, like that, and you could push it up and down a few times just to get the lubricant all over the other piece on the inside.Then you’re pretty much ready to go.The Pax is clean, it’s lubed up, and it’s ready to rock and roll.Obviously, put your oven cover back on before using it.